Mr. Bear is frowning
at the grocery list. He’s trying to understand
why “caramels” is on there. You know the
ones. Square, pale, wrapped in
cellophane, and about as much bother to unwrap a bag as if you’d made the batch
yourself. It’s not the caramels
themselves that Mr. Bear objects to.
He’s remarkably amenable when it comes to food, willing to eat pretty
much anything that doesn’t come attached to a set of tentacles or
antennae. It’s the why that’s confounding him, since he spent most of yesterday
morning watching me make a batch of caramels from scratch. I can see him looking surreptitiously from
the list to the table, where the offending candies are heaped in their perky
waxed wrappers.
He’s pretty sure he’s
missing something - some briefing that would make this all clear to him. It can’t be that the recipe was a dud, since
he’s been listening to me crow about it for 24 hours now. Because (1) It worked, a quality that is
unreliably present in my candymaking, (2) They taste amazing, and (3) I feel like
I should get some sort of extra-credit points for winning at Foodie Bingo: not
only are they salted caramels, I’ve dipped into my stash of random gourmet gifts
and managed to cram into them both Appalachian Sourwood Honey and Tahitian
Vanilla Sea Salt, which I’m pretty sure means that the sacred foodie doors will
be opened to me and someone will probably send me a copy of The French Laundry Cookbook.
The fact is, I just
want those waxy caramels. I’ve been
craving them. I’m thrilled with the
homemade ones, but the two are such vastly different eating experiences that
they may as well be parsley and cilantro: both green, yes. But there the similarities end, and
substituting one for the other is going to result in a very disappointing salsa. Mr. Bear, to my occasional dismay, is
completely blind to this distinction. That’s
not to say that he doesn’t enjoy food, but he doesn’t seem to discern much
between any two iterations of the same dish.
The man likes
lasagna. If the thing you’re feeding to
him is lasagna, and it’s neither burned nor rancid, he’s going to be
happy. Any attempt on my part to show
him the difference between a cardboard school cafeteria lasagna and an
artisan-pasta lasagna with seven Tuscan cheeses, white truffle oil and a
finishing spritz of unicorn tears is going to end in frustration. I, on the other hand, am always comparing
dishes, looking for the best iteration, and often bellowing across the dinner
table such classy and triumphant phrases as:
“This is the best lasagna I have ever eaten! All other lasagnas must bow their noodley
heads in shame!”
Mr. Bear doesn’t get
it. But you know what? He bought the caramels. With almost no eye-rolling whatsoever. And when I offered him one later, he popped
it right into his mouth. And despite my
occasional frustrations, I have to appreciate that. I haven’t always been so lucky. There was a dark time in my youth, a time
worthy of unicorn tears if there ever was one, when I dated a non-eater. Although perfectly healthy, he subsisted
almost entirely on a diet of hot dogs, chicken fingers, and pizza – his palate
having stopped developing, apparently, at the age of five. Any attempt to get him to taste something new
would end in histrionics about how he was going to gag, and when his best friend
joined the Navy, the location of the going-away dinner had to be chosen based
on the presence of chicken fingers on the menu.
Not so Mr. Bear, who
ate his entire portion of foie gras during a prix fixe meal on New Year’s and
politely withheld comment until we were safely in the car. He may not have a discerning palate, but he
is adventurous and unceasingly supportive as I enter into a venture in the food
world, a place that he finds confusing and occasionally downright silly. Plus, he does the grocery shopping. I’ve got nothing to complain about.
Sourwood Honey Salted Caramels
Adapted
from Two Tarts
by
Dulcie and Sarah
If
you’ve never heard of sourwood honey, don’t be surprised – apparently it’s
quite rare, limited to a tiny production area and dependent on perfect weather
conditions. It’s dumb luck that I happened
to stumble across a jar. Don’t fret if
you only have access to supermarket clover honey – that’s what the original
recipe was written for, anyway. But if
you can find the sourwood, it’s worth the experience. To me, clover honey tastes clear, sweet, and
sort of sharp. The sourwood, on the
other hand, has a deeper flavor – ever so slightly bitter, vaguely herbal, more
rounded and dark. The depth that it adds
to these caramels is wonderful. No
Tahitian vanilla sea salt sitting around the house? The regular will work just fine, but the
floral hit from the vanilla paste sure is nice.
Sugar [
1 ½ cups ]
Sourwood Honey [ ½ cup ]
Vanilla
Extract [ 1 tablespoon ]
Heavy
Cream [ 1 cup ]
Salted
Butter [ ½ cup ]
Tahitian Vanilla Sea Salt [ for sprinkling ]
1. Line a flat surface , such as a cookie
sheet or 9x13 pan, with parchment paper.
2. In a deep pot, mix Sugar, Honey, and Vanilla Extract.
3. Cook over Medium-Low heat. First the sugar will melt, and then the
mixture will slowly become golden, and then the color of dark honey. Do not stir, but you can swirl the pan a bit to
ensure that it’s heating evenly.
4. Meanwhile, in a small pot, bring Heavy Cream to a simmer over Very Low
heat. Immediately take it off the heat
and keep warm.
5. When sugar mixture has reached a dark
honey color, reduce the heat to Low and whisk in Butter, 1 tablespoon at a time.
6. Add in the warmed Heavy Cream and whisk to combine.
7. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of
the pot, and cook over Medium-Low until mixture reaches 260 degrees.
8. Immediately pour the caramel onto the
prepared parchment. Let it cool for 5-10
minutes, and then sprinkle with Sea Salt. Note: if
you wait too long to sprinkle, the salt won’t stick to the caramels.
9. Let cool completely.
10. Cut into pieces of the desired size, then wrap. I used rectangles of waxed
paper, folded tootsie-roll-style.
I agree with you 100% about sourwood honey. I live in FL and you can't get it here, except for the rare roadside stand that ships it in. LOVE LOVE LOVE sourwood honey! Can't wait to make these. I just so happen to have a spare jar of the good stuff in the house!
ReplyDeleteJeanette, I only knew about it because I saw a jar while we were vacationing in Tennessee last summer. Up here in Michigan, it's pretty much all Clover, all the time. I grabbed it simply because I'd never heard of the variety before, but wow am I glad I did!
ReplyDeleteI'd like to try these. They look great. Hadn't heard of the honey though I grew up in NC. I love your checkerboard pics!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Dina! The board is a cutting board we got as a wedding present; it's so pretty that I'm having a hard time allowing myself to actually cut things on it. :)
Delete